How much turf do I need? Measuring awkward Tyneside gardens

What you need

A long tape measure (a 30 m surveyor's tape is easier than a steel rule), a notebook, a pencil and ideally someone to hold the other end. Draw a rough plan of the area first, then write measurements on it as you go. Measure in metres to one decimal place; turf is sold by area, so square metres are what you are working towards.

Measure only the area that will be turfed. Leave out paths, beds, the shed base and any border you plan to keep, and decide now whether you want a strip of soil between the lawn and a fence. It makes mowing easier and saves a few rolls.

Split the shape into simple pieces

Almost any garden can be broken down into rectangles, triangles and circles. Work out each piece and add them together.

Rectangles and squares

Length multiplied by width. A lawn 6.2 m long and 4.5 m wide is 27.9 m².

L-shaped yards

Common behind terraces where the back extension takes a bite out of one corner. Split the L into two rectangles with one imaginary line, measure each, then add. For example, 7 m × 3.5 m (24.5 m²) plus 3 m × 2.4 m (7.2 m²) gives 31.7 m².

Triangles

Half the base multiplied by the height, measured at right angles to the base. Corner plots on new estates often end in a triangle.

Circles and curves

For a circle, measure the radius (centre to edge) and multiply it by itself and then by 3.14. A circular lawn with a 2.5 m radius is about 19.6 m². For a gently curved edge, measure the area as if the edge were straight, then add a little extra for the bulge.

Truly irregular gardens

For a shape that defies rectangles, run a straight line along the longest side and measure out from it to the edge of the lawn at regular steps, say every metre. Average those widths and multiply by the length of the line. It sounds fiddly but takes ten minutes and is far more accurate than guessing.

Another approach is to mark a rough grid of one-metre squares with canes and string, count the full squares and add half for every square that is partly lawn.

Slopes

On a sloping garden, measure along the surface of the ground, not the flat distance across the top as a plan would show it. Turf has to cover the slope itself, which is longer than the level distance. On a steep bank the difference can be enough to leave you short.

Steep banks are also harder to lay on. Rolls can be pegged in place while they root, and laying across the slope rather than up and down it helps them stay put.

Before you order

Check how the turf will reach the garden. Terraces with back lanes, gardens up steps and homes where every roll has to come through the house all affect where a delivery can be left and how long carrying will take. Turf is heavy, especially when wet, so clear a route and have a wheelbarrow ready.

Shade matters too. If a large tree darkens part of the lawn, grass there will always struggle. A qualified tree surgeon can advise on whether crown lifting or thinning would let more light through; some are listed below. Read when to lay turf to pick your month, and the turfing cost guide for what affects the price.

Once you have your number of rolls, Buy Turf Newcastle shows the full delivered price for your postcode before you pay. If the measuring has convinced you to hand the job over, Turf Laying Newcastle will measure and quote for laying it.